Skagit River by Sea Kayak: The Movie

For the last three days I've posted about our sea kayak adventure down the Skagit River in Washington State. Now I've condensed that three day trip into a three minute iMovie. Hopefully, it will help others interested in paddling this same route. I would have loved to see some footage of what it would be like before our departure.

What would a movie be without out takes? You just never know what that Crazy Canadian will say!

Hope you enjoyed the trip. Thanks for coming along.

If anyone has suggestions for lake, river or ocean kayak destinations in Washington, Oregon or British Columbia, I would love to hear them. We especially like trips with at least one night of camping. Rustic is fine, we travel self contained. -- Margy

Skagit River by Sea Kayak: Day 3

The last book we purchased while planning our kayak trip on the Skagit was Sea Kayaking from Mountains to Ocean by Dan Baharav. Dan is from Bellingham and has written about local rivers he has paddled in his single sea kayak. He has a nature and environmental focus to his writing in addition to paddling information. His book included the northern section of the river down to Rasar State Park, but didn't pick up again until Sedro-Woolley. But that was perfect for our third and final day.

We rose early with the sun coming over the trees. Wayne chilled our fruit cups in the river before serving breakfast on our log. We discovered how important a big log is to the camp environment. It was our bench, backrest for improvised chaises using our Therm-a-Rest pads, line for drying wet clothes, and all around storage area. We wanted to start early because this would be our longest day of paddling. From Ross Island we would continue down river past Sedro-Woolley, under I-5, into Mt. Vernon, and finally the tidally zone of the river delta.

During the night we heard lowing cattle and barking dogs from the farm across the water. Then coyotes began to sing to the setting moon. The lapping water lulled us to sleep under a star-filled sky. While we had a quick "breakfast" on our log, we watched three herons fishing in the shallows. Then it was into the kayak and on our way.

On this leg there were many more log jams and snags to avoid. They were the heaviest between our campsite and just below I-5. In two places, the water got shallow and we had to pull up our rudder, but we never went aground. In one place we took the wrong channel, but there was just enough water for us to skim over the rocks on fast running ripples. Don't tell Wayne, but I thought it was kind of fun by then.

We saw only one boat of fishermen on the upper river. Nearing Sedro-Woolley, we saw them again. As we floated by, they serenaded us with a rousing chorus of "O Canada." Our flag got us again. The area became more populated with cabins, homes and resorts along the high river bank. By this time we had been paddling for about two hours, so we decided to take a short stretch on one of the many gravel bars. While we were there, we saw two fishermen trying for Dolly Varden (large trout-like fish). The river also has steelhead and salmon in season.

Going under a roadway bridge was noisy enough, but when we got to the I-5 freeway with its four lanes of fast traffic, it was a cacophony of sound. We couldn't paddle out from underneath fast enough. Here the banks were topped with high earthen dikes to protect the farmlands beyond. The elevation is at or near sea level, so flooding is a common occurrence. Only rooftops and upper windows of the houses beyond were visible. But on a few banks there were little shacks above tiny floating docks. We weren't sure what they were, maybe fish shacks used when the salmon and steelhead are running.

We stopped in downtown Mt. Vernon for a late lunch. The best choice was Edgewater Park with its flat beach. We tied Mr. Kayak to a snag, asked a couple if they would keep an eye on it (small world, they were from Concrete) and climbed the trail to some much needed sustenance. Across the street from the park entrance, Las Coronas was perfect. We stuffed ourselves with chips, salsa, tacos, enchiladas, and a tostada. You'd think we hadn't eaten for days. We barely squeezed back in our cockpits.

Now the real work of our trip began. Wayne checked the tides, but it takes quite a while for the ebb tide to have an effect this far upstream. The river current was down to 1 mph and we picked up a headwind shortly thereafter. In the tall trees we finally saw and heard some Bald Eagles. These must be resident birds. When the salmon arrive in winter, this whole river system becomes a haven for them. At Fir Island, we went to the left down the South Fork. The river was still wide and deep, no sign of the delta mudflats yet. At 4:30 we decided to call it a day and headed for the Conway boat ramp. We gave Jeanne a call and she came to our rescue in the Ford Tempo. What a great trip, and we still have the delta to explore on another day.

Things we learned on day three:

1. Find a campsite with a big log.
   
2. Even populated areas can be exciting to explore.
3. A GPS is helpful to find places to eat.
   
4. People are friendly and willing to help.
5. Know your paddling limits.
   
6. Being flexible is important.

Thanks for paddling along with us. Hope you enjoyed the trip as much as we did. -- Margy

Skagit River by Sea Kayak: Day 2

We woke from a restful night in our tent. Our camp gear is compact to fit into the three hatches of our Current Designs Libra XT. It's their largest model, 21.8' long and 32" wide, making it very stable in the water (I like that). We only needed to make one trip from the campsite, and we only needed the front and back hatches to stow our gear, plus a few items we wanted en route stashed in cockpit dry sacks.

Another resource Wayne purchased online was Paddle Routes of Western Washington: 50 Flatwater Trips for Canoe and Kayak. The author, Verne Huser, also collaborated on the book I mentioned yesterday, so there's a lot of overlap and similarities. We both tried web searches, but for some reason, few people have written about this section of the river. Today's trip would take us from Rasar State Park to a mid-river Ross Island north of Sedro-Woolley.

After our short paddle yesterday, I felt a bit better about this new experience. The river was wide and deep in most places. When it made a turn, the water cut a steep bank into the outside shore. One such bank was drilled with holes by nesting Bank Swallows. You could hear them calling as they flew low over the water grabbing insects. The inside shore was usually a wide gravel or sand bar.

We traveled light with snack foods. Fruit cups, trail mix, breakfast bars, juices, and I'll admit it, candy. That's enough to start and end the day, but one substantial meal is nice. So we went to the Lyman Tavern for a hot lunch then went up to the market for more water (we really underestimated our needs), snacks, and an ice cream (yum). To get to Lyman, you have to enter a shallow back bay and climb the rock retaining wall to a riverside path. Main street, the pub, and the market on Highway 20 are in easy walking distance.

With full tummies, we got back in Mr. Kayak. Two hours of paddling took us past massive log jams on islands and dotting sand bars. We had to be careful to weave our way around huge stumps and trees jammed into the bed of the river. These snags can be dangerous if you get too close. But we got pretty good about reading the water to figure out the location of ones hidden below the surface.

Just north of Sedro-Woolley is Ross Island, historically a native site and homesteaded by Alexander Ross. We found a gravel bar on the north side to take out and pitch our tent. We arrived early so we took out our Therm-a-Rest pads to lounge in the shade and read. Over the crest of the bar we could hear voices coming down the river. Then we heard the cry, "Canadians." We have a small flag on a rod at the back of Mr. Kayak to help make us more visible on the water. Two young locals came ashore to say hi. They were floating from Lyman to Sedro-Woolley the "easy way" in tubes. Looked pretty "hard" to me.

The day ended with a spectacular sunset.

Things we learned on day two:

1. Drink water frequently.
   
2. We need at least a gallon each day.
3. Use sunscreen liberally.
4. Cover your lap with a tea towel to prevent burned inner thighs.
   
5. Wear a hat for better vision on glaring water.
   
6. Stop for breaks along the way.
7. Take time to explore your surroundings.
   

Wayne and I are not highly experienced paddlers. Make sure you get expert advice before starting out on your own. Ask locals, visit sporting goods stores, read books, check the Internet. It's better to be safe than sorry. - Margy

Skagit River by Sea Kayak: Day 1

Wayne and I both read a book called Water and Sky: Reflections of a Northern Year by Alan S. Kesselheim. Alan and his partner Marypat loaded a large canoe with all the provisions they would need for a daunting paddle north on the Athabasca River to Baker Lake. This was true wilderness paddling with few outposts along the way, bears to contend with, and grueling portages. But it inspired Wayne to try some river kayaking in our own double sea kayak we lovingly call "The Big Yellow Banana."

Wayne did some research and found a book called Paddling Washington: Flatwater (that's what I like) and Whitewater Routes in Washington State and the Inland Northwest. There are lots of big rivers crossing the coastal plain in Washington and Oregon to choose from. Because our mode of transportation is a bit different, we were interested in other people's experiences. Sad to say, no one has written about using double sea kayaks. So Wayne picked the Skagit River as the best one to handle our size and shape.

Paddling Washington has excellent maps and river descriptions. We knew basically what to expect, but once you round that first bend, you're on your own.

Our good friend Jeanne helped by driving our trusty '89 Ford Tempo with its "Yellow Banana Hat." Our first stop was the Sedro-Woolley boat ramp at Riverfront Park to look at river conditions. We continued upriver on Highway 20 to Rasar State Park. Wayne made online reservations for a tent spot for $20.50. Kayakers can also use the walk-in hiker/biker section without a reservation. We dropped our camping gear in our site before continuing on.

Our original plan was to start paddling near Concrete. When we crossed the bridge, I saw some whitewater that made me nervous. Wayne was understanding, so we headed back down the road after a nice lunch/dinner at the burger place next to Loggers Landing. Another good choice would have been Birdsview Burgers. We followed the book's directions to the Birdsview boat launch. This was a perfect spot to drive the car right to the water's edge and load up.

At this point, the Skagit is a deep, wide, fairly fast river. Average speed was 4-5 mph without paddling. That's what Wayne was looking for. The afternoon was hot, but we didn't have far to go. This was a short leg to get me used to the feel of, and more comfortable with, the water. I am a bit wimpy, but Wayne takes good care of me (including a bit of good-natured kidding when needed).

When we were at Rasar Park the first time, we walked down to the river (a bit of a hike) to check out the landing spots and to mark it on our Garmin Oregon 300 GPS. We only have the streets feature, but the detail about the river was enough to keep us on track. In about forty-five minutes we were there. By now, most of the beach goers were gone and we found a somewhat secluded spot to stop. We pulled the kayak above the high water line and tied it to some bushes just to be safe. While the Big Yellow Banana had a nice spot with a river view for the night, we hiked up the trail to our campsite with nothing to carry but our backpacks.

Things we learned on day one:

1. Being flexible is important.
2. Taking time to get my "river legs" was a good idea.
   
3. Dropping our camp gear made bag dragging easier.
4. Frozen water bottles melted into the best drink after a hot paddle.

Have you done any paddling trips? Where have you gone? Do you have any other suggestions? We have lots to learn and would love to hear from you. - Margy

Horseshoe Lake Kayak Adventure

The Powell River Forest Canoe Route draws paddling enthusiasts from around the world. It follows a chain of 8 lakes through the back country and is best navigated in a canoe or small kayak. That's because of the 5 portages between the lakes. Wayne and I own what we lovingly call the Big Yellow Banana. It's a Current Designs Libra XT that's almost 22 feet (660 cm) long and 92 pounds (41 k) soaking wet.

Add our camping gear and you can barely lift her off the ground. Obviously, we aren't going to take her on the whole Canoe Route, but you can access portions of it by vehicle. Last week on a warm spring day we transported the Yellow Banana to the Nanton Lake Campground. Nanton is a beautiful Forest Service camp on the Goat Lake Main logging road. This is an active logging road, so use caution and obey signs.

After launching we paddled the north side of Nanton. It's shallow near the shore and the bottom is covered with plants, perfect for trout but tough on lures. We let this little guy go home to his mama. Nanton connects with neighboring Horseshoe Lake through a wide channel. The waterway is dotted with lots of old snags from logging early in the 1990's before the dam was installed on Horseshoe.

Horseshoe also has lots of floating logs and stumps. We found hundreds (maybe thousands) of them in a solid log jam blocking the opening. We decided to work our way through. At times we felt like explorers moving through ice floes in the Northwest Passage. We would nose forward and pull logs past our hull. Sometimes we were blocked by a solid mass and had to reverse course. After about an hour we made it to open water.

We followed the north shore to the campground at the portage to Little Horseshoe Lake. It was late afternoon and the camping area was already in full shade. We decided to continue south to find a sunnier spot. About two thirds of the way down the lake (just above the canoe symbol on the map) we crossed to the west side and found a perfect spot on the bluff of an island.

It was a rustic site with a stump bench, a mossy flat area for our tent, a fire ring that we chose not to use and a dynamite view. Our kayak floated safely below tied to several beached logs. From the healthy look of the Bearberry plants and moss on the ground, we were the first occupants of the season. After our dinner of subway sandwiches we turned in to be serenaded by frogs and loons.

After a leisurely morning in camp we worked our way north fishing and trolling. About half way to the head of the lake we encountered the log jam. We paddled around it and back through the channel without any obstruction. It must move back and forth en masse with the wind. Back in Nanton, we stopped at the new picnic site built by the ATV Wednesday Trail Building Group.

After a snack and rest we paddled back to our car. On the way we passed this empty Osprey nest. It looks ready to receive its new occupants for the summer season. Osprey must need and claim a large fishing territory. We only saw one other nest in Horseshoe Lake.

Back at the campground we took time to unload and organize our gear for our next kayak trip. If you are planning to visit Powell River and want to camp, Nanton is an excellent choice. It has several lakeside spots, some with their own launch ramps. You can also headquarter here for ATV rides on the extensive logging road and trail network south of town.

If you have any questions, just leave a comment. If you want more information about exploring Powell River's back country, I recommend reading Wayne's books Up the Main or Up the Winter Trail. They are both available online at www.PowellRiverBooks.com. -- Margy

Big Yellow Banana

Wayne and I tend to name things that are important to us. There's Mr. Boat, our Campion that takes us to and from our cabin, Mr. Seagull, the rubber toy that keeps our Bayliner safe on the seas, and Mr. Pee Bucket, who help us out so we don't have to climb the hill to the outhouse every time.

On our first visit to Powell River, we decided to try kayaking. We drove up to Okeover Inlet and rented two single kayaks from Y-Knot. We had a great time, so we returned and rented a double from Powell River Sea Kayak. When we purchased a kayak, we went back to Powell River Sea Kayak and got a used one for a really good price. That's how Mr. Kayak, our Current Designs Libra XT sea kayak, came into our lives. Mr. Kayak also has a nickname, the Big Yellow Banana. When he is on top of our little Ford Tempo, he looks just like one.

The Big Yellow Banana takes us on many great adventures. We've been out in the Strait of Georgia to Harwood Island, south to the Gulf Islands and Sechelt Inlet, and north to sandy Savary and the rocky Copeland Islands. Our Big Yellow Banana has also taken us on several lake camping trips including Lois, Khartoum and Haslam. In addition, he enjoys hanging out at the cabin for fishing and exploratory trips on Powell Lake. There's nothing like a Big Yellow Banana to get you there.

Don't have a Big Yellow Banana of your own? There are lots of places to rent kayaks in Powell River including Y-Knot, Powell River Sea Kayak, Skeeter Jacks Outback Shack (only sport kayaks, but they also have a great restaurant), and Alpha Adventures. Most locations will transport your kayak to the departure point of your choice. -- Margy

Small World Indeed

When Wayne and I are in Powell River, we're constantly reminded that it's a small world (or at least town). Our first night back we went to Moose n' Eddies restaurant in the Town Centre Mall. We love their open-face steak sandwich. Things were a little slow, so we talked with the bartender/waitress about the new Quality Foods store and what's been happening while we were gone. When Wendy ran our credit card she said, "Now I know who you are. I have your book Up the Lake. My dad's Poki." We knew Poki from the Powell River ATV club. He was a wonderful man who was taken way too early in life. You can read more about him at his Facebook page.

The next morning we headed straight for our float cabin up the lake. We've been gone over three weeks and were anxious to get back home. We may have city condos, but for us, home is on the lake. In our front "yard" sits Mr. Blue. He's a Malibu Two made by Ocean Kayaks in Ferndale, WA. It turns out that Tim (the former owner of our airplane hangar in Bellingham) used to own the company before he sold out to Johnson Outdoors. Yes indeed, it's a small world.

After a quick trip to the new Quality Foods, Wayne and I are headed back up the lake. Maybe we'll take Mr. Blue out for a spin in Tim's honour. -- Margy

Call Me Mr. Blue

We have a "new to us" kayak we call Mr. Blue.

Our good friend John found Mr. Blue abandoned on the shore while boating at the head of Jervis Inlet. After a year sitting at John's cabin, we made him an offer he couldn't refuse. Now Mr. Blue rides along our transition float ready to go into action at a moment's notice.

Mr. Blue is a double Ocean Kayak built in Ferndale, Washington. It's a Malibu Two and it is what I call a "sit on" model. It is perfectly suited for paddling as a single or double. Wayne heads out with his fishing pole to troll for lake trout. I love to explore the shoreline to see if there area any treasures or useful items.

Are you interested in what living in a float cabin is like? Click here. -- Margy

Harwood Island

Last week you read about the Strait of Georgia. It is an integral part of our life in Powell River and creates the spectacular view from my condo window. In the strait you find many islands. Probably the most famous are the Gulf Islands near the tip of Vancouver Island, but directly in front of Powell River is Harwood Island.

Like many other locations in the Strait of Georgia, Harwood Island was named by George Vancouver during his exploration of the Puget Sound and Coastal BC in 1792. In this case, Harwood Island was named for Dr. Edward Harwood, a scholar and naval surgeon. Geologically, Harwood is pretty distinct. It's flat top is the result of glacial action in the region over 10,000 years ago. This is the same action that gouged out Powell Lake and the many inlets along the coast.

At the turn of the 20th Century, it was logged. The second growth trees have grown to substantial size, but you can still find evidence of the past. This old winch on the shore of the sandy spit pays tribute to the island's history. Today, it is uninhabited and is a traditional and sacred place for the Sliammon First Nation.

Harwood Island is a popular destination for sea kayakers. Leaving from Powell River or nearby Gibsons Beach, you can reach Harwood fairly easily on a calm day. For those with more skill and energy, you can circumnavigate the island and view the sea lion rookeries on the back side. It is also prime salmon fishing territory. For more information about sea kayaking, I recommend Powell River Sea Kayak, Alpha Adventures and Alpha Dive Services. To learn more about kayaking in our area, I recommend reading Sea Kayak Desolation Sound and the Sunshine Coast by Heather Harbord. And of course, there's Wayne's Up the Strait available online at www.PowellRiverBooks.com.

Come visit Powell River. You will find outdoor sports and activities all year long. -- Margy